Madrid Fusion 2019 Day 3
"Iberian Haute Cuisine" - A master class
Tasting of Caviars- Real & artificial (fruit based)
"The sweet world of Atelier Crenn" by Dominque Crenn & Juan Contreras (Atelier Crenn, San Francisco)
Dominique Crenn is a French chef of Moroccan descent living in San Francisco. There, without previous culinary training, she worked in different kitchens of increasing prestige until opening Atelier Crenn in 2011. Five years later, in 2016, with her cooking in constant evolution, telling stories and seeking to reconnect the diner with nature, she was named the best female chef in the world by 50Best. And today, alongside Juan Contreras, her partner, with whom she has been working for 13 years., they present a succession of dishes that highlight their culinary philosophy which has its basis in the ocean, which they have beside them, in the organic vegetable garden they cultivate, but also in produce such as honey, which highlights their concern for and work to preserve the endangered species of the bee, essential for the balance of natural ecosystems. Local awareness and global responsibility. Desserts in which honey, beeswax and pollen tell us new stories.
Esteeming the ephemeral" by Andoni Luis Aduriz (Mugaritz, Spain)
Andoni Adúriz concluded the morning session, appearing on stage wearing a straitjacket! A novel way of getting the audience’s attention in order to introduce the new glossary he has outlined for Mugaritz’s kitchen. A collection of words which in his cooking take on meanings which are by no means obvious. This is because they are not really words: they are his vanishing points. Andoni understands “vanishing” as a starting point: what is there inside the borders of a dish? Doors. Each of the examples presented was a brilliant demonstration of the unusual world in which his cooking resides. While the tiny booklet was all written in Spanish, I managed to get some of it translated to get an idea of what it was all about.
Citing a few examples:
Success: The consequence of making a mistake well.
Anchorage: Action & effect of anchor or anchoring, to give weight to certainties & use them as mooring.
Appetite: The drive that opposes hunger. 2nd meaning: Disposition that reveals itself in front of things & situations
Attention: Cooking technique
Random: Overwhelmed prophecy
Kiss: Standard unit to express affection
Smoke bomb: Explosive gesture capable of making invisible an escape.
Science: Master key with which you open the doors to understanding.
Kitchen: A transformative force.
Gastronomic Congress: Broth of cultivation; a medium to multiply ideas (and sometimes even bacteria)
Complex: Condition of the simple (not simplicity)
Communion: Packed among accomplices
To confuse: To illuminate, to endow with light.
Contention(heated disagreement): To get more or less
Context: Magic dust to collapse a situation; creative tool
Cutlery: Crutches to move around the table without touching it with your fingers
Body: Type of suitcase.
Curiosity: Type of hunger